Concordia University Lecture Hall

Anchored/Resilient Subfloor, 3.1/4" 2nd and better Maple with Custom Stain and Satin Waterbased Finish

 

Sport Court: Build One In Your Backyard

Any physical activity will do anybody good. Exercise should be a part of one’s regular schedule. But, with today’s hectic lifestyle, it can often be difficult to manage it into one’s schedule. This makes having one built at the comfort of your own home is the best way to deal with this problem. Of course, this idea is not for everybody. You will have to consider several things before you make this important decision. But, having a sport court in your own backyard or anywhere where there is space in your property is achievable. If you are considering this idea, these pointers might help you make up your mind.

First off, you need to consider the space. Do you have the extra area in your property where the sport court can be built? It needs to be in a flat surface of your property’s landscape that is big enough for the kind court that you would need. For example, if the sport of your choice is Basketball, the space that you have should be large enough to fit the size of a basketball court. Aside from the space, you would also need to consider other physical aspects of the space – such as drainage, accessibility, and lighting (if you plan to put in some lights).

Second, you need to come up with your design for the sport facility. Included in your concept for how you want the court to look like is how much you can afford to spend for it. This means you would need to do a preliminary costing of the materials and the labor. Shop around for professionals or companies who can do the gritty work of your project. It is also always best to mull over the quality that you are getting over the rates that you will be charged with. If you choose to pay a small fee, expect to get what you paid for. This would surely comprise the safety and the durability of your project. So, you have to think twice before sign the papers. To help you decide, you can also scout among your neighbors who courts in their background. Ask who made it for them and how much they had to pay for it. Then scrutinize the workmanship carefully and determine whether it was worth their money or not.

Thirdly, once you have made your choice for the contractor, make sure that the schedules and the quality of the materials that you will be getting is what you talked about and signed for in your contract. Other companies may scrimp and save on the materials to get more for themselves. This is why you really need to weigh your options and think twice before you haggle too much with the price. Remember, quality should be above the expenses. If you can’t afford to get a durability and value, it would be best to postpone the project for another time when your budget would be able to squeeze it in.

Having your own sports facility is quite expensive. But, if you can spare the money, then you will definitely not regret the comforts of having one in your own backyard. Just imagine being able to workout whenever it is convenient for you. What’s more, you will get to spend more quality time with your family. You don’t need to plan family outings often to be able to have fun with your kids. You can even encourage them to go out and exercise more instead of lounging around with their gadgets. Having a sports facility in your backyard would also mean that your kids would probably be spending more time at home and have friends over instead of going out. Having one installed in at home also means considerably raising the value of your property.

A sport court is a great investment not only for your body, but as well as that of family members. Aside from encouraging physical fitness, you would also be setting the tone in maintaining closeness and togetherness with your children. This is something you would agree that money cannot buy. So, instead of taking your free time away from your family, reflect on the joys of being able to stay healthy physically, mentally and emotionally with your family through sports.

Call Jason at 262.269.8045 or check out www.wisportcourt.com for more information.

From Basketball Floors to Floors to Practice Judo

Take a look at these photos. We recently were asked to build a floor to practice Judo on. The floor consists of a foam pad, plywood and 3rd grade maple. 2 coats of sealer and 2 coats of Water base Satin Finish by Bona.

The floor is a great addition to this house in Franklin, WI

Need a wood floor in your Basement. Email Ryan at jt@jt-flooring.com

Creative Gym Floor Drawings

Below are some unique and creative gym floor samples we have done over the years. Some of them ideas for brainstorming and some were created on the floors. We tend to go over board on all the drawings to opening up everyone’s eyes on the possibilities of what your school can create. Each design is not set in stone. You can pick and choose, switch somethings around, its up to your style and how you want your floor to be portrayed. Browse through these examples and let us know if they inspire ideas for your gym floor Re-Sand or New Installation.

Elite Fitness Club Receives Gym Floor Facelift (West Brookfield)

Brookfield Elite received a complete gym floor re-sand, seal, paint and finish recently. We sanded the floor, applied two coats of sealer (Bona Super Sport Waterbased Sealer), painted custom gamelines using Bona Gameline Paint and are showing pictures below of the finishing process. The following is one container of Bona Super Sport Premium (2 component) Waterbased Gloss Finish. We pour the finish on the floor using the can to the left and the strainer to guarantee the finish goes on clean.

Below is a picture of Joe Gnadt (Project Manager) applying finish. Joe has applied millions of square feet of floor finish with Jason Thomas Flooring.

Joe continuing to apply the 2nd of two coats of finish. The floor looks dull because it was buffed smooth to create physical bond with the finish.

Finished Center Logo (Custom cut to size at our facility in Milwaukee) using Vinyl Stencils to create and paint. This was the center logo just before finish was applied.

Center Logo up Close. This is after finish was applied.

Lines after finish was applied.

Indian Trails Stage

We were hired to put in the the Hardwood Gym Floor at Indian Trails about 6 months ago. From there we were asked to install the floor of the stage for the Theater. This place is amazing. Everything is top of the line including the floor. The sub-floor consisted of green treated 1×4′s, foam installation (for sound reduction), and plywood. On top of the sub-floor the top layer was 4′x8′ / 3/4inch birch boards. After the installation was complete we stained the floor black. That wasn’t enough, we then painted it black.

The theater is still under construction but here are some photos of the work done. Check back for updated photos once Indian Trails Construction is finished.

Gym Floor Care (Hardwood)

Appropriate maintenance of your gym floor is important to protect the life of your gym floor.  The following information is applicable to your gym floor and/or any hardwood floor that gets a lot of foot traffic.    Note that the MFMA (Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association, www.maplefloor.org) is the ONLY authoritative association of Maple Flooring.   On their website there is a section called “Position Statements” of which any and every gym floor installer, sander or finish is subject to.   This information, on top of the following, is absolutely critical to understand for a long lasting gym floor.    Please email jt@jt-flooring.com with any questions.

Daily Care:
1. Dust Mop Floor at least once to several times per day to remove dust/dirt/grime and larger objects as
necessary
2. Remove Gum and Tape (see below on tape) Using a Putty Knife or other object that will not scratch the
floor.
3. Wipe Up spills, especially soda and sticky products using a damp Rag with water or neutral cleaner if
available.
4. Clean Up Black or Shoe Marks using a tack cloth, white pad (lightly) or tennis ball
5. If necessary, tack the floor with any neutral cleaner as shown below in number 1 of weekly cleaning

Weekly  Care
1. Tack Floor with any Neutral Cleaner (We use Bona Kemi “Pacific”)  Note that less is more, do NOT over mix
2. Check the floor for movement.  Expansion during humid months and contraction during dry months
(excessive changes in a short period of time can produce excessive movement either way)
3. Check Entire Floor for signs of damage or safety issues (call Jason Thomas Flooring if applicable, or email)

Yearly or Bi-Yearly Care
Screen and re-coat the floor using products that are compatible to the existing finish.  Understand the difference between oil and waterbased finish and how VOC levels may or may not be an issue on your project.   One or two coats may be required but there are considerations on why you would use one versus the other.  It is our opinion that less is more when is comes to finishing your floor.   Please call or email for more information on the differences if you have questions.  Additional Game Lines can be added at this point.

Every 8-12 Years:
Sand your floor to bare wood, replace broken or damaged boards, repair/replace or add additional floor inserts or covers, seal (usually two coats), paint game lines per your requirements/WIAA (or applicable state) state requirements, and apply finish (usually two coats).  Oil or Waterbased finish is applicable at this point.  We strongly suggest you know the differences in products to choose at this point before proceeding.

Things to NOT USE/NOT DO on Gym Floors:
1. Products you would use in your home are not suggested for chemical products.
2. Soap/Oil/Wax type products at any time.   Spray products can also affect the flooring if cleaning interior
or overhead window or railings as the mist can affect adhesion of product.
3. Do Not Use Automatic Floor Scrubbers on the Gym Floor.  This is an MFMA Position Statement located on
www.maplefloor.org (If you are going to use it anyway, it is imperative to understand the time of year,
age of the floor and how long it has been since installation or a recent re-sand to bare wood.  These
factors are extremely important to understand)
4. High Point Pressure items such as scissor lifts, fork lifts, etc. should never be used on the floor without
consulting Jason Thomas Flooring or the Manufacturer of the floor first (It only takes one accident to ruin
a large section of your floor in a short amount of time).  Because most gym floors deflect vertically, too
much can cause serious damage.
5. No Tape (including Gym Tape) per the MFMA Position Statement.
6. Do Not Allow Food, soda or Popcorn in the Gym
7. Never use more cleaning product than the manufacturers recommendations allow.   This may cause your
floor to be slippery.

Items that will/may cause damage to your floor finish or indent the wood itself:
1. Small wheels that especially come to a point such as electrician carts, chair carts, rollerblades, and even
dirty wheels on your bleachers
2. Donkey Basketball.  Although they are usually outfitted with rubber soles, the initial weight at each shoe
can exceed the point pressure for allowable vertical deflection and can damage the floor.  It is suggested
to get it in writing from the Company as to the highest expected weight per shoe.   This may be
acceptable but is worth asking first.
3. Floor Hockey sticks cause indentations in concentrated areas, especially within a painted area.  Usually
this is a problem near the goal
4. Baseball/Shot Putt and Indoor Discuss can cause immediate visual damage due to color as well as
indentations but may also cause subfloor issues due to excessive blunt force
5. Portable Basketball Goals that induce very high point pressure.  If you purchase these after the fact it is
imperative to contact us regarding the point pressure that may damage your floor
6. Inappropriate use of chemicals/cleaning products may damage the floor

Please call Jason Heiman at 262.269.8045 (Cell), day or night with questions you may have. You may also email jt@jt-flooring.com.   We appreciate your consideration very much.

Maintaining My Hardwood Floor (Issues with Cleaning Products)

As wood floors have grown in popularity, so have products and ideas about how to maintain a wood floor. There are HGTV hosts telling viewers to use apple cider vinegar mixed with water for a “green” wood floor cleaner, commercials hawking mops that use hot steam to sanitize a floor, and even a popular author recommending that people use olive oil to clean their wood floors. It’s no wonder that consumers get confused about what they should do to maintain their floor … and no wonder that wood flooring contractors come across some real messes when they visit the homes of complaining customers. Here are some common wood floor maintenance questions today’s consumers are asking, and answers you can give them.

A prefinished solid wood floor damaged by repeated use of a steam mop cleaner.

Q: Can I use one of those steam cleaners advertised on TV on my wood floor?

Everyone has seen the commercials showing a steam cleaner magically sanitizing, disinfecting, deodorizing, and cleaning a wood floor. But that doesn’t mean that wood flooring manufacturers or finish manufacturers think steam cleaners are appropriate for a wood floor; in fact, some have begun to specifically mention steam cleaners in their list of don’ts. Inspectors are also starting to come across floors that appear to have been destroyed by repeated steam cleaner use. Peeling finish, whitening finish and cloudy finish are just some of the side effects being reported by people looking at floors after steam cleaning. In general, the oft-repeated industry saying “Water and wood don’t mix” holds true. Unless the wood flooring or finish manufacturer says it’s OK, it’s safest to assume steam cleaning is a no-no on a wood floor.

Q: I read that a good wood floor cleaner is vinegar with water; is that OK?

Vinegar and water used to be a typical recommendation for cleaning wood floors with a urethane type of finish. These days, however, most manufacturers recommend cleaners that are specifically formulated for wood floor finishes; in fact, vinegar is acidic, and using too much could damage the finish. People who insist on still using vinegar should use plain vinegar—not apple cider vinegar, red wine vinegar or any other type, which could leave a sticky residue on the floor.

Q: I keep hearing that I should find out which maintenance products are recommended by the finish manufacturer. But I have no idea whose finish is on our wood floors. What should I use?

The vast majority of wood floors around today, whether they were finished on-site or are factory-finished, have some sort of urethane-type finish. For those finishes, a cleaner recommended by any major wood floor finish or wood floor manufacturer should be just fine. (To check if your floor has some other type of finish on it, and what to do if it does, see the sidebar “Which Finish Do You Have?” at the bottom of this article.) A safe bet is to stop by a local wood flooring retailer and find out what they recommend and sell for use on wood floors. Not all maintenance products that are labeled for use on wood floors are recommended by major finish and wood flooring manufacturers. (In fact, some may even void your floor’s warranty.) For one reason, see below.

Q: I’ve been using a product on my wood floor that says it is a wood polish/conditioner. Now it seems like my floor has a sticky film all over it, and I can see footprints in it. How do I get this residue off?

Unfortunately, many consumers are bewildered to discover that, although the product they used said on the label it was for wood floors, it wasn’t really recommended for wood floor finishes … and now they have a big mess on their hands. Some of these products seem to leave a film on the floor that is very difficult to remove. Others may not leave a sticky film but may cause contamination problems down the road when the floor needs to be refinished. If you know the manufacturer of the wood floor or the finish on the floor, call and ask for their recommendation as to what to do. If you don’t know, you’ll need to call a local wood flooring professional. He or she may be able to use a product specifically designed for stripping such residue off a floor. If not, the floor will probably require resanding.

Q: Can I vacuum my wood floors?

Vacuuming wood floors is a great idea. Dirt and particles that are left on the floor act like an abrasive when people walk on them, so vacuuming them as often as possible will prolong the life of the finish. One caveat: Don’t use a vacuum with a beater bar, which can damage the finish.

Q: We bought a different area rug to go under our dining room table, and it’s a different shape from the old one. Now you can see the lines of where the old ones were. How do I get rid of them?

Wood is a natural product, and as it oxidizes and is exposed to light, it changes color. Some species—American cherry, Brazilian cherry and others, especially exotics—are known to change color drastically. There is no way to prevent this, although waiting as long as possible (ideally, at least six months) after the floor is installed to place rugs can help. So can moving area rugs from time to time. If you already have distinct lines on the floor, though, there isn’t usually a quick fix to remove them (even resanding won’t always remove the color difference). The unexposed part of the floor will eventually “catch up” to the rest of the floor, if you can live with looking at the floor as-is until then.

Q: I moved the throw rugs I had in my kitchen, and now I can see the pattern of the back of the rug on the floor. How do I get that off?

Many area rugs have backings that grip the floor but are unkind to wood floor finishes. The plasticizers in the backings actually damage the finish; it’s this chemical change that is creating the pattern you see on the floor. So, unfortunately, no amount of cleaning is going to remove what you see. Having the floor abraded and recoated by a professional may be enough to remove the marks; but it’s likely that the floor must be resanded. In the future, remember that only rugs with a natural backing are safe to use on a wood floor.

Q: I thought my contractor could just put new finish on my floors, but he’s telling me they should be resanded. What does that mean? How do you know?

When your contractor talks about “recoating,” that means he’s going to lightly abrade the finish on the floor and put a new coat of finish on, or he’s going to use a chemical recoating system that can put a new coat of finish on the floor without any abrasion. When he says “resand,” that means resanding the floor down to the bare wood and starting over—a much longer and involved process.

One big indicator that tells you if you need a recoat or a resand is how much finish is left on the floor. If there are bare spots on the floor, where there isn’t any finish left, you can’t just recoat. A floor with bare spots has to be resanded.

Beyond that, recoating versus resanding is largely a matter of your expectations. If you want your floor to look like new, you will need a resand. If you can live with still seeing some scratches, dents and other damage to the floor, recoating is probably the way to go. Be aware, though, that recoating can seem to highlight the imperfections that are left in the floor.   See pictures below that show some examples of what to look for.

Q: I saw a product at a big box store that says it will restore the shine to my floor; I just have to clean the floor and mop it on. Can I do that instead of getting my floors recoated?

There are various products on the market that promise to make your floor look like new without having to actually sand or recoat the floor. These products are usually an extremely thin finish that you can apply yourself.

The first thing with such products is to make sure they will be compatible with the finish on the floor and won’t contaminate your floor for future recoating. If you know the manufacturer of your finish or your floor (in the case of a factory-finished floor), ask them before using the product.

Second, be aware of typical pitfalls when using a product such as this. You must clean your floor extremely well before applying the product; if you don’t, you’ll be adhering dirt and debris right into the floor. Also, be aware that, because the product is so thin, it wears off quickly and often unevenly. So, no, products like these aren’t anything like the results you would get from having your floor professionally recoated.

Q: I have a squeak in the old wood floors in one of my bedrooms. I read that I can put baby powder in the floor to fix the squeak. Does that work?

Getting talcum powder or graphite into the small gaps around squeaking boards may be a short-term fix, although any time you put something that isn’t recommended on the floor you run a risk of contaminating the floor for future recoats. The best option for squeaks is to solve the problem, which, for squeaking floors, is a loose board. There are many ways and products to address that, from screwing down the board from below to using epoxy repair kits.

Maintenance Considerations:

These guidelines apply to any wood floor. Following them will help your floor go longer between recoating and resanding:

• Sweep and/or vacuum the floor as often as possible.
• Never, ever wet-mop a floor.
• Only use cleaners that are recommended by major wood floor finish or wood floor manufacturers.
• Use walkoff mats and area rugs at all doorways.
• Put floor protectors on the bottom of all furniture and anything else (baby exersaucers, toys, etc.) that might rub on the wood floor.
• Wipe up all spills immediately. Products such as Kool-Aid will stain most finishes if left on the floor.
• Keep pet nails trimmed. Know that dogs running through the house will scratch any finish.
• Consider using runners/area rugs in high-traffic areas.
• Keep your home at normal living conditions for your area—no extremes of humidity or temperature.

Which Finish Do You Have?

Most floors these days have some kind of urethane finish, but there are a few other types of finish that may be on the floor, especially if it’s very old.

One is wax. To test for wax, there are several options (always test in an inconspicuous place, such as in a closet):

• Put a little mineral spirits on a white rag and rub it on the floor. If the rag turns yellow/brown, the finish is probably wax.
• Allow a couple drops of water to sit on the floor. If the finish turns white after about 10 minutes, it’s probably wax.
• Rub a spot on the floor with sandpaper. If the finish balls up, it’s likely wax.

In many ways, wax floors require standard maintenance, such as sweeping, vacuuming and wiping up spills immediately. However, wax floors should not be cleaned with a standard wood floor cleaner. When they lose luster in heavy traffic areas, they should be buffed with a polishing brush or pad. White spots from moisture can be rubbed with fine steel wool, a soft cloth or a synthetic pad and a small amount of mineral spirits until the spot is gone. Then the area should be rewaxed and rebuffed.

Another possible finish on an older floor is shellac or varnish. If you scrape a spot on the floor with a hard object such as a coin and the finish flakes off, it is probably shellac or varnish, which can be maintained like a urethane finish.

Realistic Recoating (Things to look for if recoating is of consideration)

Recoating a floor can help make a floor look better and add years of protection, but it won’t usually make a floor look brand new. Here are some examples of floor wear and what to expect from a recoat:

Dents, such as these from furniture legs, will not be hidden by recoating.	Areas where the floor looks gray and/or the finish appears to be worn off entirely indicate a floor that has to be resanded.	Spots such as this hair trapped in the finish will be visible after recoating unless they are hand-scraped out first; the minor scratches should disapper.
It’s likely that these marks from a Sharpie marker have penetrated most of the finish and won’t come out with a recoat.	Moisture damage, such as these black lines at board edges from a leaking Christmas tree stand, will still be visible after recoating.	Mystery marks such as this green smudge are an unknown as to whether they will or won’t come out

More photos of maintenance issues:

A prefinished solid wood floor and baseboard show damage caused by repeated use of a steam mop cleaner.

Gray lines along the edges of these boards are damage resulting from a steam mop cleaner.

A wood floor that has been maintained with excessive moisure shows severe damage.

A prefinished solid wood floor damaged by repeated use of a steam mop cleaner.

Come visit our showroom!!

Come and Visit our Design and Performance Center.   We feature over 70 different installed, large format, samples to get a good feel for how it will look in your home.   We also feature many options via samples on several sample racks.    Set up a time at 414.841.5871 to come and take a look.

When is it time to sand and finish my Hardwood Floor

When is it time to sand and finish?

Bona recommends sanding and finishing when the hardwood floor is dulling, or has moderate to severe scratches. Also, if the finish has worn off to bare wood in high traffic areas, or if the homeowner wants to change the color or sheen of the floor, it may be time to sand and finish.

Why Bona sanding?

• Virtually eliminates airborne dust, which minimizes clean-up headaches and reduces airborne particulates that can be harmful to your health
• No dust trapped in air vents or permeating your home
• No plastic hanging in your home = no timely clean-up
• No need to vacate the home during the process
• GREENGUARD certified for indoor air quality

Why Bona Finish?

• No harmful fumes  - so no need to vacate your home or business
• Beautiful – highlight the true beauty and elegance of wood
• Durable – withstand heels and scratches from pets
• Experience & Know-how – from a 90 year old Swedish company, selling products in 65 countries worldwide
• Used on famous floors world-wide, such as Westminster Cathedral, Nike Headquarters, and NBA & NCAA arenas across the U.S.
• GREENGUARD certified for indoor air quality

Why Sand and Refinish?

Sanding and Refinishing restores floors to a new condition. Special equipment and training are needed, since sanding and refinishing is an involved process. It typically takes two to four days to sand, stain, seal the floor and apply multiple coats of finish. Once the final finish coat has been applied, you should wait four to 24 hours before subjecting your floor to light foot traffic, and 72 hours for heavy traffic.